Belfast - A City Once Divided - August 12

Dublin was sad to see us go and shed a tear, at least that's what we thought the drizzle meant. We headed out of town on the M1 - north towards Northern Ireland and Belfast. It is less than 200 km so not a long drive and we arrived at Tara Lodge on Cromwell Street shortly after 10:30. This new, modern facility sits amid streets of row homes. The removal of a few units and the construction of this place gets an A - a few blocks from Queens University and ten or so blocks from City Hall - perfect location - great for our walking endeavors.

The desk clerk was able to call the Black Cab company for our tour of the Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods that were, and still occasionally are, the center of the civil conflict. Tom, our cab driver, talked about the anniversary for the start of this conflict is this week - 40 years ago - August 15, 2009. We toured Shankill and Falls Roads, parallel roads, and stopped at several significant points. The Irish Republican Army (IRA) and the Ulster Defence Association (UDA) were the central protagonists in the conflict.

Many of the murals pay tribute to these "fighters" and they are everywhere. Some of the murals contain poems or special messages and some a symbolic of changes that have and are taking place. The composite picture contains 4 murals - the top 2 from the Loyalist side and the bottom 2 from the Republican side.

Something we found interesting is that the wall that ran between Shankill and Falls Roads is still erect AND there are four gates on four cross streets that are closed at night. Even thought the conflict is "over", there still remain groups that are not satisfied and continue to cause disturbances. We stood outside the Sinn Fein offices but did not see Gerry Adams, although he has been known to come out and talk with passers-by. The stories were endless and we will share them next time we see you. It was a very emotional tour and definitely one worth taking.

We drove out to the old shipyards. Belfast was once a leading ship building city. It's most infamous product was the Titanic. The drydock and pump house are still standing - very impressive and as those in Belfast note - the Titanic was fine when it left here - nice way of washing your hands of responsiblity. The shipyard was in the process of building the Titanic's sister ship when the Titanic sunk. The construction stopped and all the wood that was to be used was sold to a local businessman.

He took the wood and used it in one of the cities oldes pubs, The Crown Liquor Saloon (afternoon Belfast Ale and Guinness). The wood is magnificent and the atmosphere electric. The shipyard area is not undergoing a major renovation - office park, entertainment center, movie studios, construction of wind turbines (windmills), and a portion that processes old ships into scrap metal. This part of the city is representative of the entire city - a new birth (phoenix) is taking place. Another sign of the resurgence of this city is the fish sculpture - the sculpture is composed of individual tiles depicting the history of the city and plans for the future.

We wandered around the city - seeing the Albert clock, Belfast's leaning tower of Pisa - the new Victoria Square indoor/outdoor mall with rooftop views of the city - we visitied the Europa hotel, bombed by the IRA 33 times and also 150 bomb warnings, the hotel was targeted because it was the hotel of English diplomats - we stopped by Dunnes for a lunch sandwich and drink - shopped - visited several galleries - and enjoyed the pleasant weather (yes, the rain stopped halfway to Belfast).

Back to the lodge to regroup before dinner. We had a great dinner at Bourbon restaurant. Smoked Haddock and Rissoto of Leeks, Pork and Leek Sausage and Mash and Tennent's ale. We headed down the street to Robinsons Bars and the Fibber Magee Bar for some Irish music and Guinness. Crowded, loud, fun, great music. Another walk back to the lodge and another day in the books. See you tomorrow.

Dublin - Day 2 - The Walking Day - August 11

As we all know, breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Well, we did it right. 8 am found us eating eggs, sausage, bacon, yogurt, fresh and dried fruit, croissants, toast, tea, and coffee at Truman's - very energizing and a great way to start the day.

We were off to Merrion Square - up Kildare, across Merrion Row, and down Merrion Street Upper. This square is green - incredible trees, lush grass, blooming flowers, sculptures, and quiet. What a great escape! We also found this statue of Oscar Wilde in the northwest corner and his home just across the street. We had visited his gravesite in Paris a few years ago.

Next, back to Trinity College and a visit to the Book of Kells. This truly amazing exhibit was well-worth the price of admission. The Book of Kells contains an incredibly decorated and drawn copy, in Latin, of the four gospels produced in the 9th century. The exhibit is well-designed and the displays were fantastic. Leaving the downstairs exhibit room and heading upstairs led us to the Long Room, 65 meters long and full of old books. The room held a "touring" Napoleon exhibit with the "Code Civil des Francais", the Rosetta Stone, and the oldest irish harp made of willow and with 29 strings. An extra benefit beyond the normal Book of Kells exhibit.

Now, we know you would have been disappointed if we didn't include a few doors of Dublin. Simply print these and you won't have to buy the poster or calendar. The doors are of every color and design.

We took these four photos within 50 feet on Merrion Street Upper.

We won't bore you with any more, but when you visit Dublin - we promise you that you will never run out of colorful doors!

We walked along the Liffey River and enjoyed the sunny, yes sunny, day. The streets were crowded and the air crisp - great combination and extra energy. We headed back down Dame Street and stopped at the Dublin Castle.

Not much of a castle now, but there was special "sandcastle" exhibit in the upper courtyard. Some amazing examples from one artist characterizing earth elements. The hands symbolized air - there were also displays of water, fire, etc.

Then back down Dame Street, to Lord Edward, and the Christchurch as we made our way to the Guinness Storehouse.
Guinness is celebrating their 250th year and they must have held the celebration just for us. We really enjoyed the brewery tour and took special pride as we each poured our own Guinness Stout. There is a technique, you know, and we have the certificate to prove it. Oh yeah, you also get to drink it - quite a reward.

A return walk gave us the chance to fully immerse ourselves in the culture. Back streets, brief conversations, and full respect made the afternoon walk worthwhile. A return to the hotel and a chance to get ready for the evening festivities.

We went back to the Temple Bar district and had dinner at Gallagher's Boxty House. A delicious lamb boxty, gaelic boxty, irish bread, and colcannon - washed down with a Murphy's made for a great dinner.

Shared a table with two French women and two French men. Made sure they knew what to say and do.

Next, time for some Irish music (accompanied by a pub crawl). First stop - Oliver St. John Gogerty - great five piece group singing traditional Irish music - enjoyed some cold Kilkenny. Off to O'Neill's - OK duo - enjoyed some Bulmers Cider. Headed out Merrion Row and ended the night at O'Donnahoe's - great Irish music (bought a CD) - shots of Tullamore Dew and plenty of Guinness - closed the Pub.



The walking day is now over - we walked almost 10 miles today - fitness rules! Goodnight.

The Starter’s Gun Is Fired and We Are Off - August 9 & 10

Don’t mess with Mother Nature! We didn’t and neither did USAirways. Heavy thunderstorms caused a two hour departure delay, but, as they say, the skies cleared and all was well. It’s a no nonsense six hour flight (takeoff to landing) with a sumptuous dinner (remember this is an adventure or creative story), sound sleep, and a warm Danish for breakfast. Ok, enough of the plane – let’s explore Ireland!

We arrived at Shannon airport (Limerick) and headed for the Avis rental counter. Yes folks, we brought only carry-on luggage – savvy travelers.

Our rental is a Nissan Micra – we just lift it and move into any parking place we want – and it moves down the road rather nicely. We headed out on the N19, to the N18, then the N7 and we were leisurely moving through Limerick.

The overcast day did not dampen the spirits – the rolling countryside was a lush green – the neatly kept homes were a sight to see – and driving on the left side of the road brought back memories of our New Zealand trip to see Kikki. We drove by the University of Limerick and made our professional connections, drove through Nenagh, Roscrea (National Ploughing Championships coming up), Port Laoise, Kildare, the turn to Tullamore (Singing and Dancing Performances next weekend), Naas and came into Dublin on the R110.

We took an unplanned trip around Dublin – narrow, one way, dead end streets have a way of giving you a wonderful tour without you even realizing it and arrived at the Buswells Hotel on Molesworth Street.
We checked in, left our bags, and headed around the corner to St. Stephen’s Green (no not the restaurant in Philly), a beautiful park in center Dublin.

There were plenty of people sitting on benches, talking in groups, napping on the grass, or taking a relaxing walk in the park.

It was a perfect way to get our walking feet in shape for our Irish adventure.

We proceeded into one of the main pedestrian-only shopping areas (Grafton Street area) and window shopped – yes, we did not buy anything (at least not yet).

Interesting shops, crowded streets, street musicians, and plenty of fresh flowers.

Our legs brought us to Trinity College where we again made our professional connections and toured campus. A wonderful mix of old, traditional and new, modern.

We plan to return tomorrow to see the Book of Kells which is housed in the College Library.

Leaving the College we saw the Bank of Ireland and then we walked across the river (OK we used the O’Connell Street bridge) to visit the statue of Daniel O’Connell, “The Liberator”. He is related to Steve through his Grandfather (Steve’s Mother’s side of the family). Don’t you like the way the bird treats such a renowned person?! The spire (spike) you see behind the statue was erected as a replacement for the Admiral Nelson statue blown up by the IRA 40+ years ago.

We continued our walk along wide boulevards, narrow streets, and hidden alleys. We love to explore and see those items not listed in the tour books – just trying to get a feel for the culture.
The more we travel, the more we appreciate the "culture" and fully recognize that the culture is also represented by cultures from around the world. Exciting. We crossed back over the river on the Ha’penny foot bridge and headed into Temple Bar (a restaurant and pub section of Dublin).

We decided to get a bit of dinner, some Irish music, and a brew at Quays Irish Restaurant. Tre had Guinness Beef Stew and Mash, while Steve had Bangers and Mash. Thank goodness they serve good beer, yup, one of our favorites – you guessed it, Guinness. Expertly poured, served and consumed.

Our walk home included the Pub tour, our own, and a refreshing evening. It has been a long day and the bed will feel great. We plan on an early breakfast and a full day tomorrow, so goodnight.

The Plans are taking shape!

We invite you to join us on our Irish Adventure later this week. We will be leaving Philly on Sunday, August 9th and return on Wednesday, August 19th. We arrive and depart from Shannon Airport, Limerick, and will be driving east to Dublin for our first stop. Our goal is to post each day - notice we said it is our goal - and share our travels with you.

Sooooooo, our bags are packed - well almost; our plane and sleeping reservations have been made (yes, including our prepurchased tickets to the Guiness Storehouse); and we are getting ready to visit the Emerald Isle.

Our journey will take us across The Republic of Ireland from west to east and north to south; a visit to Northern Ireland (yes, it is part of the United Kingdom) will show up on this blog; single and multiple night stays will fill our trip; so get your popcorn ready - here is the timeline.

August 9 - Depart Philly

August 10 and 11 - Dublin
August 12 - Belfast
August 13 - Armagh
August 14 - Cashel/Tipperary
August 15, 16, and 17 - Kenmare/Killarney
August 18 - Liscannor

April 19 - Depart Shannon

Top o' the mornin' to you