Kenmare - Ring of Beara - August 17

Another great start to the day. We had juice, porridge, muesli, and a full Irish breakfast (yes, complete with Clonakilty Black & White Pudding). We spent a few hours walking around town, doing some shopping, and visiting one of the stone circles that was located in town. The circle dates from the early bronze age, almost 3000 years ago. It is locally referred to as "the Druid's Circle".

Next, back in the car for another day of "looking around". Today, we explored the Ring of Beara - the peninsula immediately outside Kenmare. The first part of the peninsula is a rich forest including rhododendrons, palms, ferns, large pines, and lush vegitation. It was like driving through a garden. We noticed a sign for another stone formation, stopped, and began to explore. Although we did not find the stones, we did walk in an enchanted forest. The moss, clover, and fallen trees gave it a mystical feeling. Well worth the stop.

The road narrowed and we were on the type of "path" we love. Driving on the left side is fantastic, shifting with your left hand is even better, and meeting another car head to head is not unlike Robin Hood meeting Little John on the log. One of you must "give" or, at least, find a place to full over. Mind you, pull over means onto the grass, into a bush, into a pull out - not move on to the shoulder - they don't have shoulders. The Kenmare River followed us to the west and the Beara peninsula has more fishing villages than the Ring of Kerry or Dingle peninsula. Fishing is big here and we saw fishing boats, fish farms, pleasure boats, and canoes/kayaks.
If you are following a theme in these blogs, you guessed correctly, anything having to do with stones or rocks really appeals to Theresa and this country has a 100+ stone circles or formations. No, we haven't seen them all, but we have wracked up a significant number. So, guess what - we saw another sign of a stone circle and made the turn. Up the hill, through the brush to a small area where you could leave a car or two. We parked and headed out into the cow/sheep field in pursuit of yet another rock pile (woops, stone circle). We had not fully planned for this excursion. We had on kahki pants and shoes (not jeans and sneakers) - and when we started the hike to the formation we soon discovered that we would be traversing a field of mud and wet marshy grass. None-the-less, we forged ahead and climbed over one fence into a second field - through a gate into another field, and to the top of the hill. The circle was reasonably well preserved and the sheep and cows welcomed us to their field.

After a thorough investigation of the site, we headed back to the car trying to follow our initial path. Well, as you know, in a muddy, wet field, the original path does not always look as good or even the same - so you forge ahead and make a new path. Steve was out ahead when he heard Theresa shout, "oh sh#$", he turned to see if she was alright only to be told that she had seen what looked like a large stone, but when she stepped on it - she realized that it was a large cow pie............guess the "oh sh#$" was an accurate description!

We continued up the long and windy road through rocks, heather, fields, and an occasional house. As we arrive at the highest point, we are welcomed by a heard of cows crossing the road, sitting idly beside it, or simply take up a spot it in the road. Some were sleeping, others acknowledging us, and two were nuzzling and passing the time. As with the other "rings", the views are incredible, the air fresh, and the landscape captivating. This IS a trip you should make.

We continued down to Castletownbere and around the eastern side and headed back toward Kenmare. We did see a sign for Seal Harbor and decided to explore. We did not see any, but the rocks and water were a wonderful time to sit in the sun and listen to the water. There are plenty of places in this beautiful country to grab a moment of solitude and take that time to reflect and be thankful. So, back to Virginia's we went and prepared for dinner.

Dinner tonight had been reserved downstairs at Mulcahys Restaurant. Neil and Noreen, our hosts, own this building - it was Neil's childhood home. Up until seven years ago, they ran a restaurant on the first floor and did not use the upper two floors. Seven years ago, they opened Virginia's Guesthouse and decided to lease the first floor to an up and coming Irish chef. Bruce Mulcahy is now one of the top 10 chefs in Ireland and our meal tonight confirmed his stature.

Theresa

• Prawn and Scallop Terrine, Mussell Vinaigrette, Curry Foam


• Fillets of Lemon Sole, Baby Spinach, Confit Tomato, Brown Butter Foam


• Lemon Tart, Roll of Cream, and a Glass Sugar slice


• Bailey Coffee
  

Steve

• Warm Goats Cheese with a Nut Crust, Baby Salad, Roast Red Peppers & Caramelised Walnuts Nuts, Balsamic Dressing


• Beef Wellington, White Onion Puree, Confit Shallot and Red Wine Jus


• Lemon Tart, Roll of Cream, and a Glass Sugar slice


• Irish Coffee

We are off to the Cliffs of Moher tomorrow - sleep well - see you then.